Magic

 

SPELLS

CLERICS—start with 1 1^st level spell + Wis Bonus.  Example:  Cleric has +3 Wisdom bonus, can start with 3 extra 1^st level spells OR 1 1^st and 1 2^nd level spell, OR 1 3^rd level spell.

WIZARDS/ELFS—start with READ MAGIC, 2 1^st level spells and 1 2^nd level spell + Int Bonus.  Example:  Wizard has +3 Intelligence bonus, can start with 3 extra 1^st level spells OR 1 1^st and 1 2^nd level spell OR 1 3^rd level spell.

Spells are cast with Spell Points.  Clerics start with one point + 1 point = to Wis Bonus.  Wizards and Elfs start with 1 + 1 point = to Int Bonus.  Upon gaining a level you gain more points equal to the new level + Wis/Int Bonus.

Example:  Wizard has +3 Int, starts at Level 1 with 4 Magic Points (1 for 1^st Level + 3 for Int Bonus).  Upon reaching Level 2, gains 5 more Magic Points (2 for 2^nd Level + 3 for Int Bonus).  4 points from 1^st Level + 5 points from 2^nd Level = 9 Magic Points Total.

To cast a spell, you must spend Magic Points = to the Spell Level.  So a 2^nd Level spell costs 2 Magic Points to cast.  Then, you must make a Cast Roll, similar to an Attack Roll, to determine the success of the attempt to cast the spell.  Firing an arrow is not an automatic hit; neither is casting a magic spell.

If the spell is the same level as the caster (ex: A 3^rd level Wizard casting a 3^rd Level spell) the player needs to roll a 15 or greater (add applicable ability bonus).  The target number increases for higher lever spells (ex:  A 3^rd Level Wizard casting a 5^th Level spell must roll a 17).  It also decreases for lower level spells (ex: A 3^rd Level Wizard casting a 1^st Level spell only needs to roll a 13).  A success yields typical/expected results; a natural 20 brings exceptional results.  A failure could simply mean that the Magic Points were wasted and nothing happens; but a natural 1 brings unexpected disastrous results!

Rolling a 20 ALWAYS means success, and 1 ALWAYS means failure, no matter the level of the caster or the spell attempted.

This Casting Roll also applies to scrolls and magical devices like wands, staffs, or rods; however using these items does NOT cost the PCs Magic Points.

 

REPLENISHING SPELL POINTS

Spell Points are renewed with a good night's rest (approx. 8 hours) for Elves and Magic-Users, OR with approx. 1 hour of diligent prayers and rituals for Clerics. 

MAGICAL FAILURE CHART

(IF CASTING ROLL IS SPELL LEVEL OR LESS, ROLL 1D20 FOR EXTENT OF FAILURE)

01-Spell explodes-1d6/per intended spell level to all creatures within 10’ per caster level

            (Save Vs Magic for ½ Dam)

02-Caster polymorphed into a 1=toad, 2=slug, 3=dung beetle, 4=hermit crab

03-Caster takes 1d6 Dam/spell level (Save Vs Magic for ½ Dam)

04-All nearby non-magical metal melts—INCLUDING GOLD!

05-Random Weird Shit

06-Orb of Darkness engulfs Party & lasts 1 Turn per Caster Level

07-Orb of Darkness engulfs Party & lasts 1 Round per Caster Level

08-Bizarre Gravity- EVEN=Heavy (Move 1/2ed & Dam x2), ODD= Light (Move x2 & Dam 1/2ed) area 10ft/Spell Level

09-Caster emits Blinding Light, Blindness last 1 Turn/Caster Level

10- Caster emits Blinding Light, Blindness last 1 Round/Caster Level

11-Spell is weak; ½ Dam/Effect

12-Spell is strong. Dam/Effect x2

13-Right Spell, wrong target (pick random target)

14-Wrong spell-all Enemies within 10’/Caster Level gain 1HP/Caster Level

15-Local Earthquake-all creatures within 10’/Caster Level suffer 1d8 Dam from falling rocks

16-Caster Stunned for 1 Round/Spell Level—CON check (2d12) to resist

17-Spell hits Caster’s nearest Ally

18-Spell hits Caster instead of intended target

19-Caster is weak, -4 to STR for 1 Round/Spell Level—STR check (2d12) to resist

20-Different Random Spell is cast

 

#Roll your Ability Score or lower on 2d12

CLERIC FAILURE CHART

(ROLLED 1 ON SPELLCASTING OR TURNING UNDEAD, ROLL 1D8 FOR EXTENT OF FAILURE)

8—Suffer from doubt, Cleric gains -1 Penalty to the failed ability for 24 hours

7— Suffer from doubt, Cleric gains -1 Penalty to the failed ability until absolved by Superior Cleric

6— Lose that ability (whichever ability failed, Spellcasting OR Turning) until absolved by Superior

5—Lose that ability for 24 hours x PC Level (whichever ability failed, Spellcasting OR Turning)

4— Lose all Cleric Abilities until donate to Church (PC Level x500gp)

3— Lose all Cleric Abilities until donate to Church (PC Level x500gp) and absolved by Superior Cleric*

2— Lose all Cleric Abilities until donate to Church (PC Level x1000gp) and perform rituals in local shrine/church for 3d6 days to reconnect with god*

1— Lose all Cleric Abilities until donate to Church (PC Level x1000gp) and must go on religious retreat in the wild for 3d8 days, then make WIS check# to reconnect with god*

*Failure means abandon Cleric class, become another class

#Roll your Wisdom Score or lower on 2d12

SPELLBOOKS

All Magic-Users MUST have a spellbook containing all the spells that they know.  They do NOT have to study every day, but it is assumed that they look over their notes at least twice a month in an attempt to avoid catastrophic spell failures (see below).

Magic-Users start with READ MAGIC, 2 1^st level spells and 1 2^nd level spell + Int Bonus.  Example:  Wizard has +3 Intelligence bonus, can start with 3 extra 1^st level spells OR 1 1^st and 1 2^nd level spell OR 1 3^rd level spell.

If a Magic-User loses his Spellbook, he then suffers a -4 penalty to ALL spell casting until it is replaced.  Also, the Magic-User cannot scribe spell scrolls (see below).

A Magic-User can rewrite his Spellbook from memory.  The Magic-User has a window of time to begin this process before he starts to forget fine details of his magical formulae.  The Magic-User's Intelligence score is equal to the number of days in which he must begin this process.

So, a Magic-User with a 15 Intelligence must begin rewriting his spellbook in 15 days, or there is a chance of learning contaminated formulae.

To successfully rewrite spells of the Magic-User's Level or below, roll your Intelligence or lower on 1d20.  

To successfully rewrite spells of a level higher than the Magic-User's Level, roll your Intelligence or lower on 2d12. 

Success means that you have successfully remembered and transcribed all the formulas related to that spell and may continue to cast it with no extra penalties.

Failure means that you have made some small but vital errors, and all castings of the spell are performed at a -8. 

ADDING SPELLS TO A SPELLBOOK

A Magic-User can copy new spells into his Spellbook, new pages magically appear as needed.  Spells can be copied from other Wizards' spellbooks or from scrolls.  Either source requires a Read Magic Spell.  

To copy a new spell into a Spellbook, a Magic-User must copy it from a Scroll or a Spellbook.  To properly copy the complex formulae and charts, the Magic-User must spend 1 Day/Spell Level, then roll d100 according to their Intelligence.  If the Magic-User is the same level as the Spell being learned, use the % on the chart below.  If the Magic-User is higher level than the Spell, add 10% for every level difference.  If the Magic-User is lower level than the Spell, subtract 10% for every level difference.

Example:  A 4th Level Magic-User with a 16 Intelligence wants to copy 3 spells from a Spellbook:  a 2nd Level Spell, a 4th Level Spell, and a 6th Level Spell.  

To Learn the 4th Level Spell, the Magic-User must spend 4 days copying it, then roll 65 or less on d100.  

To learn the 2nd Level Spell, the Magic-User only needs to spend 2 days copying and must roll an 85 or less on d100.

To learn the 6th Level Spell, the Magic-User must spend 6 days copying it and roll a 45 or less on d100. 

Whether the Magic-User succeeds or fails, once this attempt is finished, the formula for the spell vanishes from the Scroll, having been "absorbed" by the new Spellbook.

If the Magic-User fails, the spell still vanishes from the Scroll and cannot be used by anyone else, but the writing remains in a Spellbook, though the Magic-User can never use this formula.  The Magic-User must find another written copy of the spell to try again.

LEARNING SPELLS FOR ELVES

Elves do NOT have to copy their spells into a Spellbook to use them.  However, they should keep a list of Spells that they know.  

To learn a new spell, an Elf must study from a Scroll or a Spellbook.  This requires a Read Magic Spell.

The Elf must study 1 Day/Spell Level, then roll d100 according to their Intelligence.  If the Elf is the same level as the Spell being learned, use the % on the chart above.  If the Elf is higher level than the Spell, add 10% for every level difference.  If the Elf is lower level than the Spell, subtract 10% for every level difference.

Example:  A4th Level Elf with a 16 Intelligence wants to learn 3 spells from a Spellbook:  a 2nd Level Spell, a 4th Level Spell, and a 6th Level Spell.  

To Learn the 4th Level Spell, the Elf must spend 4 days studying it, then roll 65 or less on d100.  

To learn the 2nd Level Spell, the Elf only needs to spend 2 days studying but must roll an 85 or less on d100.

To learn the 6th Level Spell, the Elf must spend 6 days studying it and roll a 45 or less on d100. 

Whether the Elf succeeds or fails, once this attempt is finished, the formula for the spell vanishes from the Scroll, having been "absorbed" by the Elf.  The Spell remains in a Spellbook.

If the Elf fails, the spell still vanishes from a Scroll and cannot be used by anyone else; while the spell in a Spellbook seems to "turn invisible" and can never again be seen by that Elf.  The Elf must find another written copy of the spell to try again.

Certain magical spell or effects (like an Amnesia spell for instance) CAN erase a spell from an Elf's mind, requiring them to re-learn the spell.

Combat: Special Rules and Charts

Combat works as described in the Labyrinth Lord Rule Book.  There are a few special rules to go over, though.

ARMOR CLASS

We will be using a version of  "Ascending Armor Class", because it is easier for new players to get the hang of.

When you attack an NPC or Monster, you roll a 1d20.  You must roll the Armor Class or higher to hit.  The type of armor that is worn determines how hard it is to hit you or the NPCs/Monsters that you want to attack.  This chart shows the value of each type of armor.

ARMOR TYPE	ARMOR CLASS
Unarmored	10 (+0)
Padded	11 (+1)
Leather	12 (+2)
Studded Leather	13 (+3)
Scale	14 (+4)
Chain Mail	15 (+5)
Horse Barding	15 (+5)
Banded Mail	16 (+6)
Splint Mail	16 (+6)
Plate Mail	17 (+7)
Shield	+1

So, for example, if you want to attack an Orc in Chain Mail Armor, then you must roll a 15 or higher to hit it.  Then you would roll to see how much damage you inflict.

ARMOR DAMAGE

Armor can be damaged if your enemy rolls certain Critical Hits after rolling a 20.  Damaged Armor can be repaired for 1/2 the original cost.  The amount of damage your Armor can take is equal to the number of points that it raises your Armor Class by.  However, upon taking 1/2 of these points, it is beyond repair and must be replaced. 

Armor DOES still offer protection until it is reduced to 0.

But, armor becomes beyond repair and MUST be replaced upon receiving this much damage:

1 POINT
    Padded 
    Leather

2 POINTS
    Studded 
    Scale

3 POINTS
    Chain

    Horse Barding

    Banded 
    Splint

4 POINTS
    Plate

ATTACK VALUE

As you gain levels you will gain a bonus to your Attack Roll.  This chart shows you the bonus you receive per level.

 

ATTACK VALUE	CLERIC/THIEF LEVEL	FIGHTER/DWARF/ ELF/HALF..LEVEL	MAGIC-USER LEVEL
0	1-3	1-2	1-3
+1	4-5	3	4-7
+2	6-8	4	8-10
+3	9-10	5	11-12
+4	11	6	13
+5	12	7-8	14-15
+6	13-14	9	16-18
+7	15-16	10-11	19-20
+8	17-18	12	21-23
+9	19-20	13	24+
+10	21+	14
+11		15
+12		16
+13		17
+14		18
+15		19+

So if you were a 4th Level Cleric trying to hit that Orc in the Chain Mail, you would roll 1d20 and add 1 to your roll.  If that total equals 15 or more, you hit the Orc!

COMBAT

Any roll of Natural 20 yields special effects, and so does any roll of Natural 1.  The list below pertains to PCs.  Monsters and NPCs may have other special effects that are triggered by a roll of 20, or they may also use the list below.

CRITICAL HIT (ROLLED NAT 20)

20—Automatic Kill

19—Triple Damage (Dam +Bonus, then X3) + inflict permanent damage to victim's armor (victim's AC lowers by 1)

18—Triple Damage (Dam +Bonus, then X3) + chop/shatter one limb (roll on chart)

17—Triple Damage (Dam +Bonus, then X3) + knock weapon from opponent’s hand
16—Triple Damage (Dam+Bonus, then X3) + knock down victim, victim loses 1 round to stand

15—Triple Damage (Dam+Bonus, then X3)
14—Double Damage (Dam+Bonus, then X2) + inflict permanent damage to victim's armor (victim's AC lowers by 1)
13—Double Damage (Dam +Bonus, then X2) + chop/shatter one limb (roll on chart)

12—Double Damage (Dam +Bonus, then X2) +  knock weapon from opponent’s hand

11—Double Damage (Dam +Bonus, then X2) + knock down victim, victim loses 1 round to stand

10— Double Damage (Dam +Bonus, then X2)
9— Maximum Damage for attack used (plus all bonuses) + inflict permanent damage to victim's armor (victim's AC lowers by 1)
8— Maximum Damage for attack used (plus all bonuses) +  + chop/shatter one limb (roll on chart)

7—Maximum Damage for attack used (plus all bonuses) + Shatter opponent’s shield or weapon

6—Maximum Damage for attack used (plus all bonuses) + knock weapon from opponent’s hand

5—Maximum Damage for attack used (plus all bonuses)

4—Normal Damage + inflict permanent damage to victim's armor (victim's AC lowers by 1)

3—Normal Damage + chop/shatter one limb (roll on chart)

2—Normal Damage + Shatter opponent’s shield or weapon
1—Normal Damage + knock weapon from opponent’s hand

LIMB TABLE

 

6—Left hand-cannot wield weapon

5—Right hand-cannot wield weapon

4—Left elbow-cannot use shield or weapon

3—Right elbow-cannot use shield or weapon

2—Left shoulder-arm completely lost/ruined

1—Right shoulder–arm completely lost/ruined

FUMBLE TABLE (ROLLED A NAT 1)

6—Weapon stuck in wall, shield, etc takes 1d4 rounds to remove
5—Dropped weapon, draw new weapon or lose 1 round to retrieve
4—accidentally harm self for 1-2 HP
3—accidentally harm nearest ally for 1-2 HP
2—accidentally harm self for 1-4 HP + fall down; lose 1 round to regain feet
1—accidentally run into nearest ally, BOTH lose 1-4 HP and fall down; each lose 1 round to regain feet

I'm not 100% sure what this chart is going to be used for, but it seems like it should be useful.  Perhaps if someone gets hit by a sniper and we need to know where.

MASTER BODY TABLE

20—Head
19—Throat/Neck
17-18—Upper torso/Chest
15-16—Ribs/Stomach
14—Left Shoulder
13—Right Shoulder
12—Left Elbow
11—Right Elbow
10—Left Hand
09—Right Hand
07-08—Midsection/Waist
06—Left Thigh
05—Right Thigh
04—Left Knee
03—Right Knee
02—Left Foot
01—Right Foot

DEATH AND DYING CHART

When reduced to 0 HP or less, roll d20 and consult this chart.  A roll of 18-20 means the character wakes up in 1d4 rounds with 1d4HP.  A roll of 12-17 means the character wakes up in 2d4 rounds with 1d4HP.

20=KO.  Lucky you.

19=KO.  Gain faint but noticeable scar on your eyebrow or cheek.

18=KO.  Lose 1d4 teeth.

17=Lose a fingertip, thumb, or earlobe.  Could be worse.

16=Concussion.  All attacks and ability checks at -1 penalty until you rest for 1 week.

15=Broken collarbone or arm.  -3 penalty on all STR, DEX, CON checks until medical attention/magical healing is received.  Takes 1d4+6 weeks to heal.

14=Massive head wound.  Brain matter exposed.   INT permanently reduced by 2.

13=Lose an eye or limb.  DEX permanently reduced by 2.

12=Severe facial scars or disfigurement.  CHA permanently reduced by 2.

10-11=Bleeding out.   Roll 1d6+Con Bonus, you linger for this number of round and then you die.  Another character may attempt to stabilize you by staunching the wound (DC11) but you need immediate medical attention or magical healing.

8-9=You succumb to your injuries.  No medical or magical healing  can save you, but you get a dramatic death speech.

1-7=Disintegrated, immolated, masticated, impaled, or beheaded.  Death is instantaneous!

COMBAT MANEUVERS AVAILABLE TO ALL PLAYER CHARACTERS

These maneuvers are available to ALL Player Characters beginning at Level 1.

PARRY

Instead of attacking, act purely on defense.  Use your weapon only to block the enemy's attack.  Add 2 to your AC for this round.

SHIELDS

SHIELD BASH

Any character with a shield can try to do a Shield Bash instead of a normal attack.  Make a normal attack roll, success means the victim takes 1d3 damage.  A roll of 20 means the victim is also knocked down and loses 1 round climbing back to their feet.

SHIELD SACRIFICE

Any character with a shield may sacrifice their shield to prevent 1d4 HP of damage.  It works like this:  you get attacked, you are hit.  Your attacker rolls for damage.  You declare that you want to sacrifice your shield.  You then roll 1d4, subtract that from the Attacker's Damage to find the Damage you actually take.  This move shatters your shield beyond use, altering your AC until it is replaced.

EXAMPLE:  A fighter with a sword and shield battles an orc with a great axe.  The orc hits the fighter, rolls 6 Damage.  The fighter wants to sacrifice his shield and rolls a 3.  The orc's damage of 6-3=3 damage.  The fighter suffers only 3HP damage and loses his shield (lowering his AC by 1).

TWO-WEAPON FIGHTING*

You can have a weapon in each hand.  Both must be One-Handed Weapons.  Plus, the weapon in you Off Hand must be the same size or smaller than the weapon in your Main Hand.

Two Weapon Fighting gives you a +2 to your Hit roll, in addition to your normal Attack Value.  IF you make a successful hit, you must roll another die to determine which weapon you struck with.  If you roll an Even number then you hit with your Main Hand Weapon; Odd numbers indicate your Off Hand Weapon.  Then you roll normal damage for that weapon.

You can have a weapon in both hands.  The weapon in your Off Hand must be smaller than the weapon in your Main Hand.  However, both weapons attack at a penalty.  Your Main Hand Weapon gets a -2 to Attack (Normal Damage).  Your Off Hand Weapon gets a -4 to Attack (Normal Damage).

For example:  You could have a Longsword in your Main Hand and attack at -2; and also a Short Sword in your Off Hand and attack at -4.

*  This is not really useful without the Extra Attack Combat Option below.  Without this Option, you can still only make 1 Attack per round.

IMPROVED COMBAT OPTIONS

When your Character has levelled up you have access to these improved options, no matter what your Character Class is.  Every time you reach a level where your Saving Throws Improve you may choose 1 of these Improvements.

You can get the same Option more than once (after you Level up).  Doing this further improves the ability.

CLEAVE

If you kill an enemy and have leftover damage, it can be carried over to another enemy that is within 5 feet of the original target.

If you take this Ability again, the Damage can carry over to a 3rd enemy, who is within 5 feet of the 2nd enemy, and so on.

EXTRA ATTACK

This Ability give one more attack per combat round.  This Ability does NOT allow you to cast multiple spells per round.

Only available 3 times, for a total of 4 attacks per round.

IMPROVED CRIT RANGE

Normally you have to roll a Natural 20 to roll on the Crit Chart.  This Ability increases your Crit Range so that a Natural 19 or 20 allows you to roll on the Crit Chart.  The third time you select this option makes your Crit Range 18-20.  Etc, etc.  

However, your Fumble range increases at the same rate.

IMPROVED PARRY

Every time you get this your Parry improves by +2.

IMPROVED SHIELD BASH

This increases your Damage and your Knockdown Range.  
One Rank= Dam 1d3x2, KO if you roll a 19-20.
Two Ranks= Dam 1d3x3, KO if you roll a 18-20.
Third Ranks= Dam 1d3x4, KO if you roll a 17-20.

Etc.

WEAPON EXPERTISE*

Choose 1 Weapon to grow skilled in and gain +2 to Dam and to Parry.  If you choose this Option a 2nd time, you can gain another +2 to Dam in Parry with that same weapon OR become more skilled with a new weapon.

*A Short Sword is weighted differently from a Longsword.  You would need this ability for each one seperately.  Same for Bows.  However, a Silver Dagger is just a regular Dagger with a Silver coating, so one rank in this Ability applies to both.

Character Creation: Personality and Backstory

There is not really a need for a full backstory, but answering a few questions can help round out your character enough to suit the purposes of the game.  You may come up with a detailed backstory if you wish to do so.

But we need to know why your character became an adventurer, what your character loves, hates, and fears.  Try these charts inspired by Professor Dungeon Master on the Dungeon Craft YouTube channel.  

Why did my character become an adventurer? 

Roll 2d8 or choose

1)      ------

2)      accused of crime (roll any die) Odd#=DID or Even#=Did Not commit

3)      escape slavery/indentured servitude

4)      swore an oath—to do what? Swore to whom?

5)      owe money—to whom?

6)      farm devastated by (roll 1d6) 1-2=drought, 3-4=flood, 5-6=locusts

7)      town/home destroyed by (roll 1d6) 1-2=plague, 3-4=monsters, 5-6=civil war

8)      guilt or shame—about what?

9)      flee loveless/arranged marriage

10)  seek revenge—against whom? What for?

11)  1=angel, 2=demon, 3=ghost, 4=vision appeared and inspired you to adventure

12)  fleeing religious persecution

13)  desert clergy/army

14)  wish to follow in their footsteps of adventurous relative/ancestor/idol

15)  relative/friend/idol died/vanished on adventure, wish to search for them—who is this person? What is your relationship with them?

16)  Youngest/bastard child of a noble, you will inherit nothing, adventure or join clergy

What do I Fear?

01- Bats
02- Bears
03- Being trapped/no way out
04- Bugs
05- Cats
06- Closed in spaces
07- Dogs
08- Dragons
09- Drowning
10- Falling
11- Frogs
12- High places
13- Lizards
14- Rats/mice
15-“Slimy” things
16- Snakes
17- Spiders
18-Undead
19- Wide open spaces
20-Other

What do I Hate?

01- Abusive Parent/Guardian
02- Abusive Sibling
03- Bully
04- Oppressive Authority Figure (teacher/town officer/religious leader)
05- Cats
06- Clerics
07- Dogs
08- Dwarves
09- Elves
10- False/Former Friend
11- False/Former Lover
12- Goblins
13- Halflings
14- Hobgoblins
15- Orcs
16- Slavers
17- Thieves
18- Warriors
19- Wizards
20- Other

Who/What do I love the most?

01- Parent/Grandparent/Guardian
02- Brother/Sister
03- Family Honor/Reputation
04- Family Heirloom/Artifact
05- Home Town
06- Home Country/Patriotism
07- Town or Country Ruler
08- Hero/Idol
09- Lover/Perceived Love Interest
10- Wealth/Money
11- Power (Political, Social, or Magical)
12- Social Status
13- The People (general lower class or of a specific town/kingdom)
14- Specific Type of Lower Animal (dogs, cats, fairies, etc)
15-Specific God or Belief
16-Specific Group/Organization (Royal Family, Order of Knights, Wizard’s Order, Thieves' Guild/Gang, etc)
17-Children
18-Art/Literature
19-Fame
20-Other

You may also want to use the new PC Background Chart or the PC Secrets Chart.

HEIGHT AND WEIGHT

If you have a Dwarf or Halfling, roll a 1D6.  If you roll 1-3 subtract the modifer; if you roll 4-6 add the modifer.

If you have an Elf or any Human class, roll 1D10.  If you 1-2 subtract the modifer from the base; if you roll 8-10 then add the modifer.  

If you roll 3-7; modify the base by 1D4 inches; roll a 1D6 to determine if you add or subtract.

AGE

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

He rolls up characters differently than I do, but pertinent backstory stuff starts around 6:10

Yes, having weaknesses seems antithetical as a game player; but we're trying to tell a story.  And we all know that the most interesting characters have flaws and detriments that they have to learn to overcome.  Plus it helps with role-playing.

I had 2 really good videos about backstory here.  They were by Professor Dungeon Master at the Dungeon Craft YouTube Channel.  But the lousy rat fink has reverted them to private, so we can use them.

However, here are some Really Good videos by Seth Skorkowsky!

Good stuff here about how a player can push his backstory.

More good stuff to help round out your characters.  Good stuff to keep in mind.

Sorry folks, but here's one more!